The neighbourhood gets ever smoother and more chic. At least it’s staying friendly. Kakimori stationery shop has opened a new venture next door. Measure out your colours and note down your ratios. Sho (at the counter) and Tomomi will mix and bottle it for you. For your fountain pen. Of course you’ve got one. It’s like a cross between science lab, cocktail bar and designer goods store.

Ink Stand is at 4-20-12 Kuramae, tel. 03-3864-3898. Open 1200–1700 Tues–Sat