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New Straight Edge

Twenty-five paintings you stumble across in the foyer of the library at the community centre this morning are energising, straight and pure. Isn’t that the yakitori man and his wife with the outdoor grill, whose shop is next door to the raisin bread bakery off Tawaramachi crossing? And look at the work by the playful…

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Weave Your Spell

There’s a young woman selling scarves in the entrance vestibule, and as her stall is situated immediately as you go in, and people are going in behind you, you don’t stop or notice too carefully what she’s got, and it’s only when you’re on your way out of this Open Day market at the converted…

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Salty Sweet

Three things you need should you throng too long in the shops of kitchen-crazed Kappabashi: good coffee, a place to sit, and something sweet. Baristas Miki and Aya will probably set you right. They put positive pressure into the espresso, and sell interesting muffins of salt-caramel and banana, chocolate and pistachio, and bacon and pepper.…

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Spanish Castle Magic

Nice weather we’re having, for winter. Crisp and mild like autumn. The wiry olive tree by the door seems to like it. And that wooden basket of earth-caked carrots says, You could eat well here. It’s early in the evening as you walk by Amets Spanish bar-restaurant. Say hello through the open door to one…

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Open Day (Event)

New for 1st Saturday this month are about 10 design and accessory shops in the studios of the converted school that is Taito Designers Village. Also, like a technicolour squid, Takuma Hirose of Kakimori is releasing his own ink, in dozens of colours and compact packaging. So don your walking shoes and come browse the…

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Transitions

Oh no. It’s not just the winter chill that brings a dusting of desolation to the scene you find here, on your way for coffee this morning, of this home and workshop where only four months ago you made snapshots like the one above, of this industrious couple in active times. Your sense of loss…

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Arrow Heads

Just hold it right there, says the tall man in glasses and red apron. You know he has gone to get you something, even though you tried to wave him off, so you push the bicycle aside and flick down the stand. Can’t refuse these reflexive acts of kindness. Especially not on this public-holiday Gratitude…

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Light’s Back On

Unveiled with a flourish, Kaminarimon’s 10-yearly renovation was completed last week with the hanging of the refurbished, near-700kg paper lantern, courtesy of sponsors Matsushita Denki, otherwise known as Panasonic. So Fu-jin and Rai-jin, gods of wind and thunder on guard duty either side (who also got the full beauty makeover), can breathe easy. And visitors…

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University Potato

Asakusa 3-chome is where things start getting deeper, toward Senzoku and the old licensed quarters of Yoshiwara, it feels both darker and draftier than the bright temple grounds of Sensoji just south. Plenty of shuttered businesses around here, though also a couple of expensive-looking restaurants, some very late-night bars and snack establishments, and a big…

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Modern Boy Modern Girl

The first time you meet Junichiro Inamoto, he is working in the back office of his shop Tokyo Hotaru-do, or Firefly Hall. It’s up a narrow lane between two buildings in Asakusa’s Rokku, signposted by a headless, kimono-clad mannequin with an ace-of-hearts playing card in her lapel. The lighting is warm and incandescent. A transistor…

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